blog

CND's Shellac

Wed, 08 Sep 2010 08:36:44 +0100

Everyone is ecstatic about their shellac manicures and pedicures. I encourage anyone who hasn't tried a shellac polish application to do so. It has taken off so well that even the media is getting in on it!

If your still unfamiliar with what shellac is, then read on.

Shellac is Creative Nail Design's innovative hybrid nail polish. It goes on just like a polish but wears like a gel. It lasts for 14 days or more without chipping, peeling or smudging and has no dry time. That's right, after your shellac manicuring service is done, you can dig in your purse, get out your keys and cell phone and not have to worry about messing up your nails! That means no more cold tootsies in the winter! Just put those shoes and socks right back on! Best of all they'res no damage to your natural nail and there are reports of the shellac actually making your nails stronger!

Take a look for yourself what people are saying:

Understanding Acrylic Nail Services

Wed, 08 Sep 2010 07:53:56 +0100

Nail technicians across the country and around the world have been commenting that some salons are “duping” their clients by stating they are receiving a special service and charging more money when in reality they are getting a very common normal service with a fancy name at an inflated price.

You need to understand the basic types of fingernail enhancement services and their differences to know what you are paying for:

Acrylic is a liquid & powder mixed, applied with a brush that will harden (cure) with no lamps in 2 minutes or less.
Gel has the consistency of “gel”, however, has no odor. It acts the same as acrylic – but needs to be cured under a UV light and has a shinier surface when finished. Gels often will cost slightly more than acrylic, because they cost more to the technician.
Silk (interchangeable with fiberglass and sometimes linen) is applied with resin (glue) and sometimes glue & acrylic powder (Dip System).
Acrylic Dips (Extreme) is the use of resin applied to the nail, then dipped or sprinkled with acrylic powder.
Crystal or Diamond nails is any type of enhancement done with CLEAR acrylic, gel or resin either with clear tips or sculpted.

All of the above systems can be applied:

Directly on your nail (overlay)
On tips that have been applied with resin (glue) or acrylic
Sculpted using a paper, plastic or metal form.
All of the above types of services can be finished with a UV gel top coat to protect the enhancement. The UV coating is applied either with a brush or similar to polish and is “cured” under a UV lamp for around 3 minutes. UV top coats are very protective to the enhancement and will need to be filed off at your next appointment. There might be a slight additional charge for this extra.
A “French Manicure” can be done using several different techniques – #2,3,4 are also referred to as “Pink & Whites or “Permanent French” – #3,4 will usually cost more:
1. Using polish over any type of enhancement or natural nails
2. Applying white tips with a clear or sheer pink acrylic or gel, or resin with fiberglass or acrylic powder.
3. Applying natural colored tips with white acrylic or gel, resin with fiberglass or acrylic powder in the tip and clear or a sheer pink on the nail bed.
4. Using a “form” and sculpting the white tip using acrylic, or gel and clear or a sheer pink on the nail bed.
5. Airbrushed over any enhancement or natural nail

Examples of Different Product Lines Acrylic:

SOLAR NAILS – Solar Nails is a BRAND of acrylic manufactured by Creative Nail Design. It is one of the original brands. It is a true acrylic and nothing more. This is their “Pink & White” nail.
EXTREME – A brand name of acrylic, they just use the “dipping” system.
GEL NAILS – Unless it has the consistency of gel, no powder involved, it is actually acrylics with a UV gel top coat.
CRYSTAL NAILS – simply a clear tip with clear acrylic overlaid on the entire enhancement.
PORCELAIN NAILS nothing more than acrylic or “gels” possibly with a UV gel top coat.
DIAMOND NAILS – the reason these are “more expensive” is because they are hard like diamonds, still acrylic.
BAIT & SWITCH – salons will have three jars on the table, possibly hand labeled, one says acrylic, one says gel, and one says fiberglass. They are all acrylic, but the consumer will be told fiberglass and gel are better for their nails and cost more.

NONE of the above services are anything special, nor should they incur any additional cost.

Additional information about acrylic liquid monomer chemicals:

The 2 types of acrylic liquid monomer chemical used in our industry are:

EMA – Ethyl Methacrylate
MMA – Methyl Methacrylate.

The CIR (Cosmetic Review Board) has tested the more commonly used EMA liquid and found it “safe enough to be used by the consumer” but recommend it to be used by trained professionals. (7/99)
The NMC (Nail Manufacturers Council) and the ABA (American Beauty Council) have also “taken the position that MMA should not be used in nail products”. (9/7/01)
The FDA, as far back as early 1970’s, has stated, and still states, that MMA is a poisonous and deleterious substance and should not be used in liquid acrylic monomer for nail products. 3/2000
MMA is a very hard substance when cured (dry). Removal and maintenance of a MMA enhancement usually involves the use of a drill (electric file or e-file as we call it). E-files, when used by a technician who has been fully trained, are not dangerous or harmful to the natural nail plate. However, many who use this tool are untrained and have been known to cause pain and excessive damage to the nail plate – rings of fire – by drilling into the nail plate, sometimes THROUGH the nail plate into the nail bed (sometimes this causes permanent damage).
When a nail enhancement of MMA is banged or knocked, it has little to no flexibility and will break severely, often taking the nail plate with it. EMA is formulated to be flexible, the enhancement will break or crack, sometimes the nail will break off, but will not usually damage the nail plate.
MMA does not soak off easily or in a reasonable length of time, causing undue exposure to acetone while soaking. Most Non-Standard salons (NSS*) will simply RIP the nails off or pry them off causing extreme damage to the natural nail plate. If a weakened nail plate or damaged nail plate is already present, (normal is when MMA is used) the exposure problems while soaking off MMA become a larger concern, not to mention the ill effects and pain of ripping off the enhancements. EMA should take about 20 minutes or less to soak off, while MMA will take two or more hours to remove by soaking in acetone.
To make MMA adhere well to the nail, overly rough preparation methods are used. The nail plate is “roughed up” with a coarse file or an electric file, creating in effect, a shag carpet look to the nail plate, giving the MMA something to adhere to. This process thins and weakens the nail plate allowing more chemicals to be absorbed through the weakened nail plate during application and curing time. All acrylic enhancements, while hard enough to file in 1-4 minutes, continue to cure for as long as 36-48 hours after application.

Warning signs of MMA use:

MMA has an unusually strong or strange odor which doesn’t smell like other acrylic liquids. Odor is present during application and when filing cured product (for fill-ins or repairs).
Enhancements which are extremely hard and very difficult to file even with coarse abrasives.
Enhancements that will not soak off in solvents designed to remove acrylics.
Cloudy or milky color when cured.

Additional warning signs though less definitive:

Low price of fills and full sets (MMA cost 1/3 of EMA)
Dust or ventilation masks used (many technicians use dust masks today who do not use MMA)
Unlabeled containers – technician will not show or tell the client what brand of product is being used

MMA is present in almost every acrylic polymer (powder) on the market. This is entirely acceptable. Only MMA in it’s liquid form is dangerous. Nail glues, wraps, and gels also have a small amount of solid MMA, this is also acceptable in this chemical state.

A Non-Standard Salon (NSS) is usually lacking in or follows poor sanitation practices, uses inferior and/or prohibited products, and under trained or non-licensed technicians.

Drill and MMA damage pictures~

**This article was obtained from a member of the http://beautytech.com Forum.

What are Minx nails?

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 04:14:44 +0100

Minx is an ultra-thin polymer coating with endless style possibilities. Minx isn't nail polish, it's a film with a more "perfect" finish than polish. And the metallic just can't be matched by polish. Minx is all the rage with celebrities, because with the patterns available and the ability to match an outfit, you can extend fashion all the way to your fingers and toes.

Environmentally friendly - no fumes, no removers
Long lasting - two weeks average, varies by individual.
No drying time
Wont' chip
Many patterns and styles to choose from
Perfect "factory like finish"

Minx services include a "mini" manicure or pedicure to get your nails in perfect condition to apply the coating. In order to apply Minx , the surface of the nail needs to be free of any oils. Therefore, these "mini's" do not include exfoliation, massage or lotions like our normal manicures and pedicures.

Other things to know: Minx coatings on the fingernails will last several weeks. Minx applied to the toes will not last as long when worn with closed toe shoes.

MMA and you

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 00:14:18 +0100

MMA
The Truth Behind the Controversy
Doug Schoon, M.S.
Vice President of Science & Technology
Creative Nail Design Systems<?

One of the most controversial topics in the professional beauty industry involves a monomer liquid called MMA or methyl methacrylate. Unfortunately, there are many myths and misunderstandings surrounding the use of this ingredient. Most nail technicians know they should not use products containing this ingredient, but they don't know why! This lack of proper information opens the door for speculation and rumors.

Generally, when you ask someone why MMA should not be used, they will immediately respond that MMA is toxic. Although it is true that you should not drink MMA liquid, the same holds true for salt water and rubbing alcohol. MMA is not a human cancer causing agent and it does not absorb through the nail plate to affect the health of clients or nail technicians. Nor is it dangerous to inhale in the salon environment. Scientific information collected about MMA shows that toxicity is NOT the reason MMA makes a poor nail enhancement ingredient. In fact, for many years MMA has been safely implanted in the body as a bone repair cement - so it is not a dangerous toxin, as many imagine.

Then why should MMA not be used? There are four main reasons:

MMA nail products do not adhere well to the nail plate. To make these products adhere, nail technicians often shred up (etch) the surface of the nail. This thins the nail plate and makes it weaker.
MMA creates the hardest and most rigid nail enhancements, which makes them very difficult to break. When jammed or caught, the overly filed and thinned natural nail plate will often break before the MMA enhancement, leading to serious nail damage.
MMA is extremely difficult to remove. Since it will not dissolve in product removers, it is usually pried from the nail plate, creating still more damage.
The FDA says don't use it! This is clearly the most important reason. The FDA bases their prohibition on the large number of consumer complaints resulting from the use of MMA nail enhancements in the late 70's and they continue to maintain this position today.

For these reasons, the Nail Manufacturers Council and the American Beauty Association have also taken a stance against the use of MMA liquid monomer as an ingredient in artificial nail liquids. Not because MMA is toxic, but because it is an unsuitable ingredient. Creative Nail Design (and Hooked on Nails) agrees with this position. MMA is a widely used monomer with a long history of safe use in medical and dental products. It is fine for making bulletproof windows and shatterproof eyeglasses. However, we believe that artificial nails should not only be beautiful, they should not damage the natural nail. They are enhancements, not replacements! We also believe it is the responsibility of all professional nail technicians to protect the health of their client's natural nails. A good place to start is by using responsibly formulated products and to learn safe and proper techniques. (Douglas D. Schoon)

So, what are we using to create artificial nail enhancements? EMA or Ethyl Methacrylate. What is the difference? The following is an explanation of the differences between MMA liquid and EMA liquid from Paul Bryson, Co-Director of Research & Development for OPI Products.

Paul writes:

Chemically speaking, sometimes a very small difference in a molecule's structure can make a big difference in its effects. Ethyl methacrylate (EMA) has a slight, but significant, difference in molecular structure from MMA that makes EMA much safer to use. More specifically, EMA has a carbon atom and two extra hydrogen atoms compared to MMA. This may not seem like much, but the effects are large.

An analogy is the difference between Methanol (wood alcohol) and Ethanol (beverage alcohol). As with MMA versus EMA, the difference between the two is just one carbon and a couple of hydrogen atoms; yet one is a deadly poison and the other is safe if used moderately.

Experience has shown that MMA is strongly sensitizing and has a high potential to damage nails and surrounding tissue. Some people may use it and be OK, but that is just luck. Enough people were harmed by MMA, that is why the FDA prohibited the material from nail use 2 decades ago.

EMA has a somewhat larger molecule, and is less able to penetrate body tissue. Many years of salon experience indicate that this material is safe for most people. Of course, just as with any food, drug or cosmetic, there are always going to be a FEW people allergic to it. And long-term overexposure to ANY acrylic - even odorless or gels - can cause sensitivity to gradually develop.

This is why EMA, and all acrylic or gel products, should only be applied by trained professionals who can minimize the skin exposure that a client experiences. (Paul Bryson)

Methyl methacrylate monomer: The subject of a court ruling
U. S. Food and Drug Administration
Center for Food Safety and Applied Nutrition
Office of Cosmetics and Colors Fact Sheet
March 30, 2000

In the early 1970s, FDA received a number of complaints of personal injury associated with the use of fingernail extenders containing methyl methacrylate monomer. Among these injuries were reports of fingernail damage and deformity, as well as contact dermatitis. On the basis of its investigations of the injuries and discussions with medical experts in the field of dermatology, FDA concluded that liquid methyl methacrylate was a poisonous and deleterious substance that should not be used in fingernail preparations. The agency chose to remove products containing 100 percent liquid methyl methacrylate monomer through court proceedings, which resulted in a preliminary injunction against one firm as well as several seizure actions and voluntary recalls.

Although there is no specific regulation prohibiting the use of liquid methyl methacrylate monomer in cosmetic products, FDA continues to believe that this substance, when used in cosmetic fingernail preparations, is a poisonous and deleterious substance.

How do you know if your salon or technician is using MMA?

MMA has an unusually strong or strange odor which doesn't smell like other acrylic liquids. Odor is present during application and when filing cured product (for fill-ins or repairs).
Enhancements which are extremely hard and very difficult to file even with coarse abrasives.
Enhancements that will not soak off in solvents designed to remove acrylics.
Cloudy or milky color when cured.

Additional warning signs though less definitive:

Low price of fills and full sets (MMA cost 1/3 of EMA)
Dust or ventilation masks used (many technicians use dust masks today who do not use MMA)
Unlabeled containers - technician will not show or tell the client what brand of product is being used.

Diet tips for healthy, beautiful nails.

Tue, 01 Dec 2009 23:36:04 +0100

· Drink plenty of water and fresh fruit juices. It will help keep your body, and in turn your nails, well hydrated.

· Ensure that half of your diet is made up of fresh fruits and raw vegetables. This will supple your nails with the required vitamins, minerals and enzymes.

· If your nails are too brittle and dry, you should increase the consumption of food that items rich in vitamin A (such as apricots, broccoli, carrot and cheese) and calcium (such as milk, yogurt, cheese and almonds).

· If you are suffering from the problem of hangnails, it is advisable to eat food rich in protein, vitamin C and folic acid.

· Deficiency of vitamin B 12 can lead to dryness, rounded and curved ends and darkening of nails. So, make sure to include enough of the vitamin in your diet.

· Carrot juice is rich in calcium and phosphorus and helps strengthen your nails. So, try to consume as much fresh carrot juice as is possible for you.

· Supplementing your diet with spirulina and kelp will help make your nails strong and healthy.

How do I know if I have nail fungus?

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 00:18:37 +0100

First off, if you suspect you may have an infection, go see a doctor. They can prescribe a treatment to get rid of it. Nail fungus can take 6 months to year on average to get rid of. So if you just noticed it, don't allow it to start spreading, and see a doctor immediatly. The sooner you go in and start treatment the sooner it will be healthy again.

What is nail fungus?
Nail fungus also known as as onychomycosis, is a microscopic organism that does not require sunlight to live. Nail fungi infections are normally from a group called dermatophytes. In some cases, however, the infection can also be caused by a yeast or mold. It is estimated that over 10 million people in the USA have nail fungi.

What should I look for?
Your nail may be flakey, thick, yellow or greenish in color and deformed. If deformed, the nail could also be raised from the nail bed (onycholysis) and the nail may rub against the inside of the shoe. If the nail raises and starts rubbing inside the shoe it can cause pain. White dry material may accumulate between the nail and the nailbed. In combination with nail fungus, the skin around the nail can also become infected. It may become inflamed, swollen, itchy, sore, and even filled with pus.

What can I do to prevent it?
Be sure to keep your nails dry. Warm moist environments promote fungus. This causes toe nails to be affected more then finger nails. Be sure to remove sweaty socks immediatly. Artificial nails can encourage infection by giving it a dark and unvented environment to thrive in. Be sure your articial nails are not lifted. If water gets between your natural nail and the artificial nail, it is the perfect breeding ground for fungus or mold.

Only go to nail shops that use new disposable files/buffers and sanitized metal implements or bring your own. If the nail tech does happen to cut you, you can rest assure you won't get an infection from dirty tools. Keep in mind a dirty pedicure basin from previous users can also spread infection. So be sure your technician has cleaned that too. Ideally look for a place where all the water can be removed after each use, scrubed with antibacterial soap and water, then disinfected for 10 mins with an EPA registered cleaner (usually blue in color. Barbacide is one to look for). You should witness this kind of sanitation and disinfection practice after each pedicure.

How to prevent Nail Fungus:

Wear open shoes or sandals.

Sweaty socks should be changed immediately.

Wearing natural fiber socks like cotton will help the feet breath and thus prevent sweating. You might want to use synthetic if you find you feet getting to wet in cotton socks. Synthetic blends may help wick the moisture away.

Public lavatory floors spread the fungus so you should wear shoes at all times in them.

Wear flipflops when taking a shower in a public stall.

File and trim nails short and straight. Keep them dry and clean.

Avoid nail shops with with bad sanitation and disinfection procedures.

Risks
If you have diabeties or a weak immune system then you are more succeptable to nail fungus and should make sure you take preventive measures like using antifungal ointment.

Treatments for Nail Fungus:
There are many cures but they all take a while to work. Medical experts suggest treatment with pills is most affective. Pills get absorbed by the body and kill the fungus beneath the nail from where it started. Pills also have the benefit of treating any other nails where it could have already been spread. Topical creams are used in concert with the pills to increase it effectiveness and decrease healing time. Powders and creams can help stop a repeat of the infection. Pills are usually taken for a few months to suppress the nail fungus until the healthy nail grows out. A topical treament must be applied on a daily basis. Sometimes 1-3 times each day. If only a topical treatment is being used, it is important to be consistent in application.Once one forgets to apply it, it's like starting the process all over again. Ideally you don't want to give the fungus a chance to regrow.

How do I grow healthy, long natural nails?

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 00:19:45 +0100

Beautiful, strong nails that grow long are hereditary. However, with proper care, genetically soft and spitting nails that do not seem to grow can be strengthened. When the nail is strengthened (also called “hardened”), the nail resists peeling and breakage, and thus, can enable you to grow long nails. The trick is to select the right products to use and to stay away from potentially damaging ones.

Contrary to popular belief, the nails should not only be hardened, but moisturized as well. This is so they will remain flexible. This is the main reason why many nail-growth programs fail. The individual will only harden the nails. The idea is to achieve a balance. If the nail is too hard, when slammed accidentally onto a hard surface, it will snap because it lacks flexibility. It will also not look its best because it will be too dry. Conversely, if the nail is too soft, it may rip very easily because it lacks resistance. The moral is that if you want to grow long nails, you should incorporate both nail strengtheners (hardeners) and nails moisturizers (conditioners) into your nail-care regimen to encourage optimum growth.

Although weekly manicures will definatly help achieve long beautiful nails, home maintanence is equally important. I would recommend using a moisturizer that contains jojoba oil. Jojoba's molecole can actually penetrate deep into the nail plate and skin, whereas most other oils like vitamin E will simply just sit on the surface of your skin and not actually penetrate. Using the combination of jojoba with other oils is a great idea and will give optimal results. Rub the oil into your nails and cuticle at least once a day and especially after washing your hands. Use it whenever your cuticles look dry and to freshen up the look of your hands and feet.

Be cautious of how long you leave on a color lacquer. Nail lacquer needs moisture and will chip if its lacking it. Colored lacquer can start to soak up the nail's nature moisture and therefore it is important to apply your oil or lotions on a regular basis. This is why jojoba oil is so ideal; it can provide moisture to the skin around the nail and penetrate through the polish and still be absorbed by the natural nail. Jojoba is great for keeping acrylic or gel flexible as well. So don't be afraid to use it!

Tips for Growing Long Natural Nails:<?

Eat Healthy
Use nail strengtheners
Drink lots of water
Moisturize your hands
File your nails often
Apply cuticle oil daily

Do you really have gel nails?

Wed, 02 Dec 2009 00:22:34 +0100

We have been getting a lot of people asking if we fill gel nails. After some questions, it is determined that these people DO NOT have gel nails, they have acrylic nails with a gel top coat. These salons are purposely misleading the client and charging them more for a service they are not getting.

If you truly have gel nails, you will know. Gel is in a pot and looks like really thick hair gel. It is clear, translucent pink or white and you don't mix anything. Your technician will put a layer of gel on and you will have to put your hand into a ultra violet light. She will apply two to three layers of the gel, placing your hand into the light between layers.

If your technician takes a brush and puts it into a liquid and then into a powder, this is not gel. This is liquid and powder acrylic. Most technicians will finish pink and white or pink and glitter tip acrylic nails with a gel top coat. This top coat will stay shiny until it is filed off.

Applying a gel top coat to a set of nails does not make it a set of gel nails.